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Page 4
"At the moment, a woman's dress size 12 is a 38 in Germany,
Netherlands and France, a 40 in Belgium, a 44 in Italy and a 46
in Portugal and Spain. It gives you an instant headache," says
Steve Tyler, spokesman for the BSI. The idea is that every garment
would be labelled with a pictogram - a metric matchstick man. Women
would have to know their bust size in centimetres, and men their
collar and inside leg, which could just be the start of another
headache. Harmony, as Britain's so-called metric martyrs - the shopkeepers
who were penalised for selling bananas by the pound - know to their
cost could be many years away.
What is here today is another spin-off of body-scanning. The current
buzz word in fashion is mass customisation. A phrase borrowed from
the car industry, it sounds like a contradiction in terms - delivering
something personal to everyone - but it simply means using the latest
technology to create a one-off garment that fits the customer perfectly.
The shop of the future works like this. You walk into Prada or
Topshop. You step into one of their body-scanning cubicles and your
3-D image is encrypted onto your personalised credit card or smart
card. You sit in an armchair with a personal shopper and choose
a few items from the shop's range - a jacket, a shirt and trousers.
Using virtual-reality software, you can see yourself - your digital
twin - in those clothes. You can add accessories, change your hair
colour, parade up and down a virtual catwalk and give yourself a
twirl. If you like the results, the assistant presses a button and
your digital body map is transferred to the factory where a laser-cutting
machine reads the software and alters the pattern to fit you. In
a few days, your jacket, shirt and trousers are couriered to you.
They fit. Welcome to the world of e-couture.
The concept is so new that the industry has yet to hit upon a user-friendly
word. But you must admit that anything is better than mass customisation,
with its communist overtones. Some call it demi-couture (couture,
in its correct French sense, means hand-sewn); others, e-tailoring.
Digital tailoring, meanwhile, is on offer at Brooks Brothers' flagship
store on Madison Avenue in New York, where Wall Street types are
happy to find a 12-second window in their schedules to be measured
up. Pioneered in November, the shop has built up a bank of satisfied
customers who can order suits and shirts, made to measure, without
leaving their desks. The process is fully automated - "no human
hand", boasts a spokesman - and orders are delivered within
15 days. So successful has the pilot scheme been that the company
plans to extend it to a further 10 shops and offer it to women.
Prices are well below traditional made-to-measure suits; a digitally
tailored outfit starts at £495; handmade costs more than £710.
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